How to adjust your valves properly.

First, you must determine if you have solid lifters, or hydraulic lifters. Solid lifters were commonly used on the early 144/170ci motors, while hydraulic lifters were used on the later 144/170ci and 200/250ci motors. However, this is only a rule of thumb.

Disconnect the coil wire first for safety, making sure the motor won't accidentally start. Some guys prefer to remove all the plugs too, so that the engine is easier to rotate
during the procedure. Make sure to mark your plug wires before disconnecting, so you don't mix up the firing order when reinstalling them.

Next rotate the engine until the number one (#1) cylinder is on TDC just after the compression stroke (you can feel the compressed air by putting your finger over the
spark plug hole).

Now you can adjust the following valves:

#1 intake - #1 exhaust - #2 intake - #3 exhaust - #4 intake - #5 exhaust

Next, rotate the engine until the number six (#6) cylinder is on TDC just after its compression stroke (one full revolution of the crank shaft). Now adjust the remainder
of the valves:

#2 exhaust - #3 intake - #4 exhaust - #5 intake - #6 intake - #6 exhaust

Adjust the valves by backing off the adjuster so that the pushrod can be easily rotated between your thumb and forefinger. Then slowly tighten the adjuster until you can no longer rotate the pushrod. Tighten the adjuster an additional ¼ turn, for the proper preload on the hydraulic lifter.

Note: The valve adjustments should be done on an engine that has been warmed up. Make sure to let it cool off sufficiently so that you don't burn your fingers while rotating
the pushrods. It is also a good idea to place a drop cloth or oil pan under the car/engine
to prevent oil drips on the floor.

While valve adjustments must be made as accurately as possible, it is better to have the valve adjustment slightly loose, rather than slightly tight, as a burned valve may result from overly tight adjustments. Look in your engine manual to determine the proper valve lash for your motor. If you can't find it, they were commonly set at .018 thousands, but this lash should only be used as a very last resort.

1. Start the engine and let it run until it has reached operating temperature.

2. Remove the valve cover and gasket.

3. With the engine idling, adjust the valve lash using a step-type feeler gauge. This type of feeler gauge is sometimes more commonly known as a "go-no go" type feeler gauge. The proper clearance is reached when the smaller step on the gauge blade will pass through the gap while the larger step on the same blade will not pass thought the gap.

Pass the proper size gauge blade between the valve stem and the rocker arm. If the clearance is correct, move on to the next valve. If the clearance is in need of adjustment, turn the adjusting screw on the opposite end of the rocker arm with a wrench until the proper clearance is reached. Turn the screw clockwise to decrease the clearance and counterclockwise to increase the clearance. Use the procedure for all of the valves.

4. Re-install the valve cover after you finish adjusting the valves.

Other related articles:
Understanding Lobe Centers - Static vrs Dynamic Compression
Cam Installation Tips - Adjusting Your Valves