In this article we'll cover twenty of the most frequently asked questions from the Ford Six Forum. If you don't find an answer to your questions, please visit the FordSix.com forum. The forum has a huge data base with loads of valuable information, which is available to visitors, as well as registered members. However, don't expect other members to answer all of your questions. Forum members get tired of answering the same questions over and over, just to satisfy the needs of someone who's to lazy to look for the information on their own. Use the "Search" function and try to find the information on your own, before posting any question. If you still can't find the information, or if your confused, then post your questions. Most forum members will do whatever they can to help you out, providing you've done your homework. If you haven't done your homework first (trust me, we can tell) then your less likely to get very many replies.
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Should I rebuild my 200/250ci six, or swap to a V8 like everyone else? |
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What is the primary reason most people build a six, instead of going to a V8? |
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How much will it cost to build a six, and where do I start? |
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What is the first modification I should do, which is the "best bang for the buck"? |
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Can I use a late model 200/250 head on my ‘65/66 200ci engine? |
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How do I modify the log intake to accept a two barrel carburetor? |
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How do I know what size carburetor to use, or which one to use? |
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Is a Port divider really required when installing headers? |
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Can I install headers if I have Air Conditioning? |
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Are ceramic coated headers worth the extra money, and if so, why? |
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How do I know which camshaft to select for my motor? |
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What is meant by Degreeing the Camshaft, and is it really necessary? |
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How much valve spring pressure should be used, or which ones I should use? |
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What options do I have for rocker arms, and do high ratio rockers really help? |
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How do I adjust hydraulic or solid lifter valves? |
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How does the Load-O-Matic distributor work? |
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What's the best ignition system for the small six? |
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What is a Duraspark distributor, and how do I install and wire it? |
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What is a DUI distributor, and how do I install and wire it? |
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Can I install a T5 five speed transmission behind my inline six? |
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Should I rebuild my 200/250ci six, or swap to a V8 like everyone else?
If your just looking for cheap power, a V8 swap is probably the best way to go. But if your tired of cookie cutter V8s and your looking for something different, a performance six may be just the ticket. If you like tinkering on engines, prefer a challenge, and have plenty of patience, building an inline six can be very rewarding.
By design, inline sixes produce more pavement pounding torque, pound for pound, than their V8 counterparts. They get better gas mileage, and offer improved handling and braking, due to the reduced nose weight. They're fun to drive, easy to work on, and very reliable and robust. Plus a properly built performance six will usually attract more attention at car shows. Simply put, they're awesome motors.
However there are a few things you need to consider before making your decision. First, you need to understand that building a performance six cylinder engine is going to set you back a few bucks. A performance six can drain your pocketbook quickly if you haven't done your homework. Depending on your goals, your personal experience, how much of the work you can do yourself, and how much needs to be done by others, a performance six generally cost twice a much to build, as compared to a small block V8. Especially if you have to rely on someone else to do all the work.
Selecting the right combination of parts is crucial, but selecting the right shop is just as important, if not more so. Even if they do great work on V8s, the results can be disappointing (or worse) if they've never built a six. I can't tell you how many times I've heard stories about shops and engine builders who don't bother to check the compression ratio or degree the cam, simply because it's a six. Bottom line, they simply don't think it's going to make a difference. After all, it's only a six.
Make certain your shop is "concerned" with what they are doing, and whenever possible, that they have experience building inline sixes. If they don't seem interested in your project, do yourself a big favor and walk away. Be especially cautious of those who keep reminding you that they're "experts", or that they've built numerous Award Winning V8's, and that a six isn't any different. Never hire a shop that doesn't care. Find one that likes the challenge of building a six, because it is different. Find a shop that's excited about doing the work, one that looks forward to seeing the end results. If they don't have experience, make sure they do their homework.
Before you start ordering parts and/or turning wrenches, take time to visit our tech section and read the recommend magazine and tech articles. Spend time searching through forum topics, and purchase the Falcon Six Handbook as well. The more prepared you are, the more successful you'll be. Once you have a good idea of your goals (keep it realistic), make a plan and establish a budget. While you need to be flexible, you also need to stick to your plan, and your budget, as much as possible. As one of our forum members puts it, "Enjoy the Journey".
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What is the primary reason most people build a six, instead of swapping to a V8?
We recently did a poll on the FordSix forum, asking members why they built an inline six, rather than swapping to a V8. As you can clearly see, the primary reason was to be different. Most are tired of seeing nothing but hopped up small block V8's when we go to the local car shows, or what we call "Cookie Cutter V8's".
To see a summary of the more interesting replies,
click here.
To view the actual topic and all replies, click here.
 To be Different |
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Economy-Mileage |
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More Performance |
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Stock Appearance |
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Other Reasons |
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How much will it cost to build a six, and where do I start?
This is a question I hear everyday, sometimes several times a day, over the phone and by e-mail. It has also been posted in the fordsix forum (and answered) many times over. For us old timers, seeing the same question posted over and over can be annoying, so you may get a short answer or what seems to be a rude reply. If so, please try to understand why. If you ask a vague or generic question, you'll usually get a vague or generic answer in return. You'd be much better off doing some homework, before you post your question. Try to establish a basic plan, and a budget, before you start asking questions. When you do ask a question, try to be specific.
To answer such a vague question, like the one above, is time consuming and difficult. There are simply to many questions that need to be answered first, at least before anyone can reply with a educated answer. Questions like......
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First, what is the overall budget for the project? |
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Will the block need a full rebuild, or is it a fairly fresh motor? |
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After the machine work, will you have money left over for performance parts? |
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How much of the work are you willing (or capable) of doing yourself? |
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Do you have the space and time to work on it, or need a shop do the work? |
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What is the planned usage - daily driver, weekend cruiser, street/strip, etc? |
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In order, which is more important - mileage, performance, or appearance? |
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Do you want to run regular pump gas, or is high octane fuel acceptable? |
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Can you live with a rough idle, or do you want it to run smooth and quiet? |
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Does the engine need to look original (OEM), or is a modified appearance OK? |
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Have you added any performance modifications, or are you starting from stock? |
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Do you have a manual or auto tranny? If auto, is a high stall converter OK? |
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Do you prefer carburetion or fuel injection? if carbs, single or multiple? |
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Do you want it to be natural aspirated, or boosted (turbo/super charged)? |
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And so on....... |
Here's a few good resources to get you started.
Purchase the Falcon Six Performance Handbook.
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FSP%2D200%2DFSH
Read through the various tech articles on this website.
http://classicinlines.com/tech.asp
Search the forum. There are hundreds of topics covering this subject.
http://www.fordsix.com
Look for website's hosted by forum members. Here's a good example:
http://www.geocities.com/mustang_man_1966/index.html
You don't need a lot of money to get started, but in general you'll find it cost considerably more to build a performance six, vrs a V8. Much of the cost depends on your experience level, or how much of the work you can do yourself. If you have to pay a shop to do everything, you can easily wind up spending more of your hard earned dollars for labor, rather than parts. Look for a shop that has experience building sixes, preferably with plenty of customer referrals. The worst situation is to wind up paying a shop to experiment with your engine, only to end up with a motor that doesn't run properly. And this happens more often than you might think, even when the shop comes highly recommended by your buddy with the V8. Be especially weary of the so called "Award Winning" shops, or the "Experts". Most don't have a clue when it comes to building a six. Looks for shops that are eager to work with you, and those that like the challenge of building a six, because it is different.
Most backyard (or DIY) mechanics can handle headers, ignition upgrades, and carb swaps without any problems, however they may need help jetting the carb and tuning the engine for the best performance. One of the most beneficial modifications, is upgrading the cam. Therefore, if a valve job or cylinder head swap is planned, make the most of it by swapping out the cam while the head is off. Unlike a V8, the cylinder head must be removed to swap out the cam (or to remove the lifters). While your at it, install larger valves, do some basic cleanup work, or have the head professionally ported for improved air flow. When you swap the cam, or even if you use a stock cam profile, make sure you upgrade the valve springs and pushrods. Stock springs will float around 4500rpm, and that's when they are new. I won't even mention using old and worn out springs.
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What is the first modification I should do, which is the "best bang for the buck"?
This has been debated numerous times in the FordSix forum, however it seems most members would agree that the best bang for the buck, or the first modification to do, would be up-grading the ignition system. Toss the old points style distributor in favor of a electronic or magnetic reluctor style distributor. Either will result in quicker starts, smoother idle, improved throttle response, and will usually eliminate flat spots when the system is properly tuned and timed. Dyno test have shown the DSII to produce gains of 5-10hp, while the DUI commonly adds 10-15hp, over a stock points style ignition system.
There are several choices for up-grading the ignition system, you can install a Petronix electronic ignition kit, or swap to a Duraspark, Mallory, or DUI distributor. Prices vary anywhere from $100 to $600, depending on the components chosen, whether they are new or used, and where the parts are purchased. We don't cover the Mallory dual point ignition systems in any of our tech articles, simply because the point style distributors are out-dated technology. Electronic is the only way to go.
The cheapest way to accomplish a distributor swap, is to purchase used parts from your local salvage yard. Look for a low mileage Ford, such as a 1978 Fairmont, which has the Duraspark II ignition system. Make sure to snag the dizzy, the cap and cap adaptor, the coil and ignition module, and the wire harness.
If you prefer a rebuilt distributor, they can be purchased from most local parts stores for about fifty bucks. Ask for a distributor from a 78 Fairmont, along with a new rotor, a cap, and the cap adaptor. Or you can opt for a rebuilt Duraspark II distributor from Performance Distributor (sold by classic Inlines) which incorporates a full length brass bushing. This full length bushing eliminates top end timing fluctuations and spark scatter, which is a common problem with the stock OEM distributors, new or rebuilt. However a stock distributor will work fine for normal street usage, where higher rpm ranges are rarely seen.
For ignition control modules you have several options, including the stock Ford Blue Strain module, a 4-pin GM module, MSD's 6A module (or any aftermarket module similar to a MSD-6A), or Performance Distributors Dyna module and Inferno Coil, which is sold by Classic Inlines. As for ignition coils, the options are endless. We recommend using the coil which is recommended by the manufacturer of your ignition module or distributor. In other words, if you use an MSD ignition box, you'll probably be better off using the MSD coil that is recommended by the manufacturer.
The DUI Ignition System (sold exclusively by Classic Inlines) offers a new billet dizzy which is based on the popular HEI ignition system, commonly found in GM vehicles. The DUI distributor has the ignition module and coil installed inside the distributor cap, which eliminates the need for a separate ignition module and/or external coil. While the DUI is the highest priced of all options, it offers the best performance, in a compact and easy to wire system. It is easier to service, and replacement parts are generally cheap and easy to find. Replacement parts, such as the cap and rotor, can be purchased at any parts store, which is not the case for DSII ignition systems. Many parts stores no longer carry replacement parts for the DSII distributors due to their age, however they can be special ordered. While this isn't a concern for normal service, it is something to consider if you travel the open road frequently. Breaking down is no fun, especially if you have to spend a day or two waiting for parts.
For more information please see our Tech Section, which includes articles on the Petronics II, Duraspark II, and DUI ignition systems, as well as installation, wiring, and re-curving.
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Can I use a late model 200/250 head on my ‘65/66 200ci engine?
The short answer is "yes", as long as you verify the compression ratio. While all 144,170, 200, & 250ci cylinder heads are interchangeable, the valve size, chamber size (cc's), and intake tract volume, changed over the years. While the cylinder head will physically bolt on and function, it is very important to verify the C/R using a compression ratio calculator. Decreasing the compression ratio reduces throttle response and over all performance, however it can usually be corrected by milling the head and/or installing a thinner head gasket. On the other hand, increasing the compression ratio is usually a good thing, as long as you don't go to far. To much compression causes detonation, which can be fatal to your engine in short order.
For more information, please read our tech article "Small Six Cylinder Head Swap".
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How do I modify a log intake to accept a two barrel carburetor?
For more information, please read our tech article "Installing a 2V Carburetor".
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How do I know what size of carburetor to use, and/or which one to use?
The only way to know what size carb to use for your specific motor, is to use a CFM calculator. Never guess, as one of the most common mistakes when changing carbs, is to over-carb the motor. When in doubt, always use the smallest carb. Bigger is not better. For stock or mild performance engines, we recommend the new Autolite Vaporizer (1V) or the 32/36 Weber DGV-2V progressive carb. For performance motors, depending on the build, we recommend the small Autolite 2V carbs, which range from 240-287cfm, and finally for all out performance builds, the Holley 350cfm and 500cfm work well. For more information check out our tech section, which has several articles on carb swaps, conversions, and selection. We also have a Dyno section, which shows several different engine builds and the dyno results from each. |
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Is a Port divider really required when installing headers?
This topic has also been debated many times in the FordSix forum. The general consensus among forum members is that port dividers are not needed and do little to assist performance. To our knowledge there are no dyno test to prove otherwise. The only thing known for sure, is that the make a horrendous rattle when they break loose, due to poor or improper installation. Several members have installed the port dividers, only to remove them to stop the rattling. Once removed, they can tell no difference in performance, based on seat of the pants testing. They may however assist in preventing blown head gaskets, but this too is unknown for sure. The only recommendation we will make, is to follow the directions to the letter when installing one. Don't take short cuts and make sure they are welded in place (no JB Weld). Click here for more information.
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Can I install headers if I have Air Conditioning?
It has been stated by others, that headers can not be installed if you have air conditioning. However Classic Inlines has shown that headers can be installed, providing you modify the A/C bracketry to provide adequate clearance between the header pipe coming off the number one cylinder and the alternator or compressor. Please see our Tech Article "Installing Headers with A/C" for more information.
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Are ceramic coated headers worth the extra money, and if so, why?
Classic Inlines strongly recommends the use of ceramic coatings for several reasons. Topics such as Heat reduction, rust prevention, appearance, safety, and improved performance are covered in our tech article.
For more information, please read our tech article "Jet-Hot Ceramic Coatings".
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How do I know which camshaft to select for my motor?
Classic Inlines has written several tech articles to assist you in selecting the proper camshaft. First you'll need a good understanding of camshaft technology, which can be obtained by reading our article on "Selecting the Right Cam". Next you'll need to know the difference between "Static vrs Dynamic Compression Ratio". Once you have a firm understanding of both, you should be able to make an informed decision on which camshaft profile best suits your specific engine build. However if you still have concerns, we'd be happy to suggest a camshaft for you. Just drop us an email with as much information as possible on your engine build (including the compression ratio, carburetion, head work, etc), the specifics of your vehicle (tranny type, rear gear ratio, tire size, weight, etc), and the planned usage (daily driver, weekends only, show car, street/strip, full race, etc).
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What is meant by Degreeing the Camshaft, and is it really necessary?
The term "Degreeing In Your Camshaft" means you are making sure the camshaft's position in the engine coincides with that of the crankshaft, so that their rotation is synchronized. This is the only way you will know if the rise and fall of the pistons properly matches the opening and closing of the valves, so the engine will run properly. A few degrees of misalignment can affect the engine's operation dramatically.
If the circumstances were perfect, one would only need to line up the marks on the timing chain sprockets and the cam would be degreed. In reality, you are dealing with a group of components (the camshaft, crankshaft, timing chain, and sprockets), all with their own standards and tolerances. These tolerances stack up against you and can throw your camshaft out of adjustment. Without degreeing the cam you can never be sure that the parts are in correct position. If you have the tools, we always recommend that the camshaft's position in the engine be degreed in. If you don't have the tools, borrow or purchase them.
For more information, please read our tech article "Degreeing your Camshaft".
NOTE: It should be noted that all Clay Smith Cams are ground straight up, whereas most other cam manufactures grind their cams with a four degree advance. Therefore we recommend degreeing the Clay Smith Cam with 4 degrees of advance when installing and degreeing the cam.
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How much valve spring pressure should be used, or which ones I should use?
Valve springs are one of the most critical components of your engine. It is very important to match the camshaft and potential RPM range with the correct spring rate. You may have heard that too much spring pressure is hard on valves. In truth, what’s hard on valves is the speed at which they contact the valve seat when closing. What dictates how hard the valve hits the seat? It’s supposed to be the camshaft closing ramp (cam lobe), but when the spring pressure is too low the valve does not follow it’s intended path and instead slams into the seat and actually bounces. Hence higher spring pressures can actually aid the valve by forcing it to more closely follow the shape of the cam lobe. However to much valve spring pressure adds to friction and valve train component wear. Therefore it is important to match the spring pressure to the profile of the camshaft.
For more information, please read our tech article "Selecting the Proper Springs".
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What options do I have for rocker arms, and do high ratio rockers really help?
For more information, please read our tech article "Rocker Arm Options".
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How do I adjust hydraulic or solid lifter valves?
First, you must determine if you have solid lifters, or hydraulic lifters. Solid lifters were commonly used on the early 144/170ci motors, while hydraulic lifters were used on the later 144/170ci and 200/250ci motors. However, this is only a rule of thumb. Once you have determine which lifters you have, simply follow the instructions in our tech article.
For more information, please read our tech article "Adjusting Your Valves ".
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How does the Load-O-Matic distributor work?
For more information, please read our tech article "Load-O-Matic Distributor".
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What's the best ignition system for the small six?
For more information, please read our tech article "Petronics, Duraspark, or DUI"
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How do I install and wire a Duraspark II Distributor?
While the wiring for a duraspark dizzy looks intimidating, it's really pretty simple. Study the wiring diagrams and make sure you understand the connections before attempting the swap. Wiring diagrams are provided in our tech article, as well as easy to follow instructions for the swap. We also cover re-curving the DSII for increase mileage and performance.
For more information, please read our tech article "Duraspark II Distributor Swap".
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How do I install and wire a DUI distributor?
Installing a DUI dizzy is extremely simple. Just follow the directions and you can't go wrong. While the DUI only requires one wire hookup to a 12V supply, we recommend using a relay to make sure you are getting a full 12V from the battery, directly to the distributor. Wiring diagrams and basic instructions are provided in our tech article.
For more information, please read our tech article "Installing the DUI Distributor" .
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