Written by FordSix member: flash_point01
What you’ll need: |
- Duraspark II Distributor (new or donor)
- Control Module (new or donor)
- Wiring Harness (new or donor)
- Plug Wires (new or donor)
- Coil (new or donor)
- Mr. Gasket Re-curve Kit #925D
- Assortment of hand tools
- Assortment of Electrical Tools
- Assortment of Cleaning Utensils
- Dial-Back Timing Light
- Tachometer
|
|
|
If you prefer to rebuild the distributor yourself, rather than purchasing
a
new
or
rebfurbished distributor, start by finding a 1978 or later donor vehicle.
Since
they came
from the factory with the Duraspark II ignition, make sure you
get
all
of
the
associated parts, including the coil and horse-shoe connector, the plug wires,
spark
plugs,
wiring
harness, control module, and as much
of the wiring as possible.
The
recycler
I used
already had the distributor from a 78 Fairmont pulled and ready to
go.
However the
control module and wiring harness wasn’t available, so I purchased
a new Dyna module from Classic Inlines, rather than buying a stock 78 Ford module. Here is a picture of my restored Duraspark, painted red.
While you disassemble the distributor, make sure all of the parts
are clean,
move freely,
and that the bushing is in good condition. |
First, remove the distributor cap base to expose the breaker plate.
Next, remove the vacuum canister from the distributor.
After removing two screws, the arm should just slide off the pin.
Remove the reluctor by prying upward with two screwdrivers, making sure the
blades
are against the base, not the teeth. If this doesn’t work for you, try the next step.
NOTE: When pulling the reluctor be careful not to lose the pin holding it in place.
By cutting the arm off an Allen wrench, I was able to use it as a punch, to push the pin
downward through the reluctor. However, a small nail set or punch would be better suited.
Remove the top half of the breaker plate and clean under it, then reassemble.
 
Remove the two screws holding down the breaker
plate
and remove it exposing the mechanical advance.
Toughly clean all moving parts and ensure that that operate easily. Replace the lighter spring with one of the springs from the Mr. Gasket Recurve Kit # 925D, which I purchased from Jegs. Then move the arm from the heavier spring 3/32 of an inch towards the center.
After replacing the breaker plate, replace the reluctor and pin. I had
to use the Allen wrench again to push the pin back into place. After
the pin is reset, use a spark plug socket to tap the reluctor into place.
 
Completely reassemble the distributor, by reversing the steps for disassembly.
Out with the old and in with the new.
First make sure the battery is disconnected and the transmission is in park, or
neutral. Manually rotate the engine so the rotor lines up with the number one plug
wire, which should be roughly in the 6 o’clock position. To do this you can rotate the
fan
by hand, however you might have to push down on the fan belt to create enough
friction
to
rotate the engine. Once the rotor is lined up properly, remove the distributor
hold
down
and bolt, which is on the right side of the distributor. NOTE: As you remove
the
distributor the firing arm will move clockwise, note its position. |
Before you drop the DSII distributor into the block, set the rotor to
the
approximate
spot where it was when you pulled the old distributor
(starting
with the position you
noted when pulling
the dizzy). As the
distributor
drops into
place, the arm should move counter clockwise, returning
to the 6 o’clock
position.
Replace the distributor hold down and bolt, and lightly tighten. |
While the drivers side fender wall (in front of the shock tower)
is a popular spot, most manufacturers suggest mounting the
ignition
box
under the dash, in a safe and cool location. |
The updated version of the "Dyna Module Ignition Kit, available from Classic Inlines, is now painted in Ford Blue powder coat
and includes the new "Inferno 2" high performance coil.
Here’s a rough drawing of the wiring diagram for my 67 Mustang. First lets cover
some
of the basics behind the wiring. The solenoid is a switch that powers both
the
starter
and
a full 12v to the coil. The switch is closed by sending 12v to the “S”
terminal,
so
when you turn the ignition to “start” you close that switch, sending
power to the start
and the coil. Because the points could only handle 6v without
burning up Ford installed
a pink resistor wire, more on that latter.
When starting the engine, the coil needs a full 12 volts. In order to do that, Ford
bypassed the resistor during cranking. When the solenoid closes it also sends
12v
to the “I” terminal, through the brown wire, and up through the red wire to the coil.
While the engine is running the solenoid
is open, 6v is sent through the resistor,
through the red wire, to the coil. It also back-feeds 6v to the “I” terminal.
NOTE: It is very important to remove the back feed wire, otherwise you risk wearing
out the solenoid, which will send 12v back through the blue wire and possibly burn
up the wires under the dash. And everything else, including your car. |
So now that we have an idea of how the old system worked, lets wire our new setup.
First make sure the battery is disconnected and it’s safe to work. Next pull the ignition
out so you can work with it. I will not detail this step because of the many different
setups there are. Once out locate your pink resistor wire, keep in mind after 40+
years
and multiple paint jobs it might not be so pink. Luckily for me mine was very
well marked. Cut or remove the pink wire, if you cut it make sure to properly end the wire
so it doesn’t short anything out. Now you can either connect to a 12v ignition source
to the coil or splice into a 12v wire. Run this new wire, yellow
in my diagram, through the firewall and to the coil, if needed install the resistor that came with Dyna Module kit. Keep in mind those using other modules may not need this resistor. Remove and cut the old wire running to the coil and remove the brown wire coming off the “I” terminal, again making sure the wires are not exposed. Now lets test it all, you will need a helper. With the battery connected turn the ignition to the run position. Test to see that your getting 12v to the “+” terminal on the coil. Now disconnect the wire going
to the starter from the solenoid. Have your helper hold the ignition in the start position. Again make sure your getting 12v to boththe “+” terminal on the coil as
well as the “I” terminal on the solenoid. If not you car is worthless, if that’s the
case I would be happy to buy it from you for next to nothing. If that won’t work
for you rework it and retest.
If you still can’t figure it out that’s what the forum is for.
|
The colors I refer to, are the colors in my diagram.
The
actual wire colors in your vehicle may vary.
 
Reconnect everything and put it all back together, remember your new Duraspark needs different plug wires. Use the ones from the donor, or get a set from your local parts store just ask for the wires from the same vehicle and year you pulled the parts from, or a mid 70’s Fairmont. This is also a good time to make sure you have a step colder than stock plugs gapped at .045 - .055. Start with the lower number, drive it, and decide if you can
go bigger. When setting your advance you may need some one to crank the engine over while you adjust the distributor until you can get it in the ballpark. Set your advance either using a timing light or even better a vacuum gauge. This can be done by connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold source, disconnecting the vacuum advance and plug its source starting the engine and rotating the distributor clockwise or counter clockwise (counter clockwise for more advance, clockwise for less) until you get the highest steady vacuum reading,
then back off 1-2 inHg. Shut down the engine, tighten down the distributor hold down
bolt, and recheck it to make sure it didn’t move while tightening. |
Now to go one step further, track the new curve on the DSII. You will need a tachometer, dial back timing light, graph paper, and a friend. First note what your initial advance was and what RPM’s you were running. Next start the motor and check the timing with the vacuum advance disconnect connected at idle. Increase engine speed by increments of
500 RPM, noting the total combined advance at each step. You may need to dial back the timing light to keep the timing notch within the numbers. Continue to increase engine speed until about 3000 RPM. The goal is about 32-35 degree’s of total advance in before 3000 RPM. |
Written by FordSix member: flash_point01
Related tech articles:
DSII Distributor Swap
Ignition Timing
Tunning with a Vacuum Gage
 |
